The goal for the extended producer responsibility is to establish a common regulatory framework for waste management within the textile and fashion industry. Companies will be required to pay an eco-modulated fee to finance collection and recycling, with the fee based on the durability and circular design of their products.
Marie Busck, Chief Sustainability Officer at DM&T, describes the agreement as a key milestone:
“The extended producer responsibility is a crucial tool in the EU’s textile strategy. It holds producers accountable for textile waste and promotes circular product design through eco-modulated fees.”, Marie Busck says.
The agreement mandates that all EU countries must implement EPR schemes. This means that companies selling textiles within the EU will bear the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling. The rules cover clothing, accessories, hats, shoes, bedding, kitchen textiles, curtains, and carpets (excluding wall-to-wall carpets). Notably, online platforms are also subject to these requirements, regardless of whether they are established within or outside the EU. However, micro-enterprises will have an additional year to comply with the rules.
The fees will primarily be calculated based on the product’s weight and quantity. They will be determined according to the EU’s Ecodesign Regulation (ESPR) or other relevant EU legislation defining sustainability criteria. Member states will have some flexibility to apply their own criteria, such as product lifespan. However, this has raised concerns about potential fragmentation:
“We see a risk of fragmentation if each country applies different definitions and fee criteria. This could result in an administrative burden with 27 different regulatory frameworks, counteracting the goal of harmonization,” says Marie Busck.
For the agreement to become legally binding, it must now be formally approved by the Council of Ministers and the European Parliament. It will then undergo a legal review and be published in the EU Official Journal, triggering the 30-month implementation period. By 2029, the European Commission is expected to evaluate the directive’s effectiveness and consider setting targets for waste reduction, collection, and recycling.
Source: DM&T.